What is sampling

Sampling is the process of creating prototype garments before committing to bulk production. Samples let you see, touch, and test the product before manufacturing hundreds or thousands of units.

Sampling costs money and takes time. It is also the most important phase of production. Problems caught in sampling cost a fraction of problems discovered in bulk.

Types of Samples

Development sample (first sample): The initial prototype based on your tech pack or design concept. Often made in available fabric rather than final production fabric. Purpose is to check design, proportions, and basic construction. Expect issues. This is where you identify problems.

Fit sample: Made to check how the garment fits on a body. Usually produced after development sample revisions. May use fit models matching your target customer. Measurements get refined based on how the garment actually wears.

Pre-production sample (PP sample): Made in final production fabric, trims, and construction. This represents exactly what bulk production will look like. Purpose is final approval before manufacturing begins. If you approve the PP sample, you are saying "make thousands exactly like this."

Top of production sample (TOP): Pulled from the actual production run during bulk manufacturing. Purpose is to verify the factory is producing to specification. Not a prototype. A quality check on real production.

Salesman sample: Samples made for sales purposes before bulk production. Used to show buyers, take orders, or photograph for marketing. Usually made with extra care since they represent the brand.

What Sampling Costs

Sample costs vary widely based on garment complexity, manufacturer location, and what is included. General ranges:

These are making costs. Additional costs may include:

Pattern development if you do not have production-ready patterns

Fabric sourcing if specific materials must be obtained

Shipping samples to you for review

Revisions when changes are needed

Some manufacturers refund sample costs when you proceed to bulk production. Others do not. Clarify this upfront.

Sample Timelines

Each sample round takes time. Typical durations:

Shipping adds time between each round. International air freight is 3 to 7 days.

Plan for 8 to 16 weeks from initial tech pack to approved PP sample, assuming 2 to 3 revision rounds. Complex garments or difficult fabrics take longer.

Why Samples Get Rejected

First samples rarely match expectations exactly. Common issues:

Measurement variance: Garment does not match spec. May be cutting error, sewing variance, or spec issues you did not notice until seeing the physical garment.

Construction differences: Manufacturer interpreted instructions differently than intended. Seam type wrong. Stitching placement off.

Fabric issues: Development fabric does not represent production fabric. Hand feel different. Drape wrong. Color off.

Proportion problems: Looked right on paper, looks wrong on a body. Pockets too high. Collar too wide.

Quality concerns: Stitching uneven. Finishing rough. Pressing inadequate.

These are normal. Sampling exists to catch exactly these problems. The goal is not a perfect first sample. The goal is identifying every issue before bulk production.

How to Review Samples

When samples arrive, review systematically:

Measure everything: Check every dimension against your spec. Document any variance.

Check construction: Examine seams, stitching, finishing. Look inside. Check stress points.

Evaluate fabric: Is this the fabric you expected?

Fit on a body: Flat inspection is not enough. Put the garment on a person. Move around. Sit. Reach.

Document everything: Photograph issues. Write clear comments. Be specific about what is wrong and what correction you need.

This glossary is maintained by Elkaiva, a luxury full-cycle private label manufacturer for fashion, home, and hospitality.